Hyaluronic Acid is not an acid even though it's called an acid. You get the AHA and BHA acids like salicylic acid, glycolic, lactic acid. Hyaluronic is not one of these AHA’s. Hyaluronic acid is actually a naturally occurring polysaccharide in the human body and it acts as a cushioning and a lubricating agent for our joints and in our skins and in our eyes.
Why we use it in cosmetic products is because it helps to prevent moisture loss. It's a Humectant, it's anti-inflammatory as well and has great water binding activity so it basically attracts water and keeps it in, which is a great thing when you obviously need to use it on your skin.
It's found in the middle layer of the skin, not in the top layer of the skin so it's a very powerful humectant that can bind a thousand times of its weight in water. It's really fun to formulate with, it's a powder so as soon as I add it to water and start to blend it, it literally swells up into gel and thickens! Older and dryer skin generally has lower levels of hyaluronic acid. If you are 50 years old you're going to have about half the amount of Hyaluronic acid you would have had in your skin when you were 25.
So hyaluronic acid (HA) won't penetrate your skin to increase the amount of HA in your stratum spinosum where it is found. It will however, make your stratum corneum feel nicer which is obviously the top layer. So if it doesn't penetrate our skin, does it do any good? Yes it does. Studies have shown that the application of topical Hyaluronic acid can form folds on our skin which helps to increase moisture and reduce moisture loss which is trans epidermal water loss, so obviously it helps to reduce that, it helps to speed up wound healing, it reduces inflammation, it decreases the formation of age spots it softens the skin and restores elasticity to the skin which can reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles.
One really great thing about Hyaluronic acid its very light and watery and its full of consistency it really packs a punch for such a light watery thing, it feels like a gel but it's an amazing ingredient so it's really great for anyone with acne prone skin who is averse to creamy oils and moisturisers.
The trick with Hyaluronic acid is to use it under your moisturiser because its a humectant, this means that it attracts water to it, so what happens is, if you are in a very dry and arid areas like say South Africa in the Karoo and you put hyaluronic acid on, it can actually “so they say” absorb the water from your body and basically let it go out. So what you need to do is make sure that you seal your Hyaluronic acid with a moisturiser. So you always put it under your moisturiser. If a moisturiser has Hyaluronic acid in it, it would already be sealing it in because it has an occlusive in it which makes it “seal” on its own.
Products that we make that contain hyaluronic acid.
Hyaluronic acid skin shot,
Plump up serum,
Super skin which is our anti-aging, intense moisturiser
Hydra refine which is an essence serum with glycolic acid and obviously hyaluronic acid in it.
If you have any questions let us know.
Mailshot and content for Squalane
Squalane is actually derived from something called squaline. So squaline is hydrogenated into squalane. The name squalene actually comes originally from sharks liver, but obviously these days we don't use animal products in our skin care products! They've obviously found a way of making this squalane that comes from aloes, sugarcane and wheat germ and that's what we use, and as far as I know, most of the products that I know and I have seen have used squalane and its from obviously not the animal but the plant.
So squalene is not an oil it's actually a hydrocarbon and that’s important because that means that people that have an aversion or reaction to oil, some people have issues when they put anything with oil on their skin it reacts and it blocks and they have a problem. So the nice thing with squalane is that you can also literally use it 100% concentrated safely. It's great for things like fungal acne because it's not an oil and fungal acne feeds on oils.
I have a whole blog post on fungal acne if you want more information. So the lovely thing about squalene is that it is very easily absorbed and it basically helps to protect the transepidermal water loss of your skin. Transepidermal water loss is a problem because that obviously means that your skin is releasing water and therefore becoming dry so most moisturisers help with that but squalane is very effective with that. It also helps to increase the volumocity and vibrancy of your skin and helps to lessen your fine lines and wrinkles and reduces redness. Its also a natural antioxidant and it helps to repair the skin’s barrier.
You can also use it on your nails and in your hair as well, just putting it on the ends, it’s great on your cuticles as well. The best way to use squalane is 100% concentrated.
You can either use it as a serum under your moisturisers, over your moisturiser, traditionally you are always suppose to use it a little thicker but its not actually an oil so you can mix it in with oil your moisturiser you can put it underneath your moisturiser you can use it instead of a moisturiser and it's a really amazing ingredient for literally everyone so from people with acne that don't feel like they want to moisturise cause they feel it's gonna make the skin more oily but it actually doesn't but especially for people that don't like using oil the squalane is perfect and for anyone with wrinkles fine lines and just an amazing ingredient it's all round and everyone can use it.